Pamalandong in Palo
In my hometown Palo, in Leyte, Good Friday is commemorated by a reenactment of the “Passion of Jesus Christ.” Some of the menfolk wear robes and pointed hoods ala Klu Klux Klan — they frightened one of my brother’s barkada who had just come back from the US, that day he visited and these men stopped him in his car — but that’s how penitents dress up in some parts of Spain, where this practice must have been adapted from by some Spanish friar who got assigned to Palo a long time ago.
Aside from going around with bare feet, these penitents also help manage traffic — that’s why they’re lined up along the sidewalk in the photo above. They clear the path for the seminarian/actor who volunteers to play Jesus and carry a big cross around town to reenact the Stations of the Cross, with other townsfolk playing the minor roles or as crowd extras (but all dressed like they walked right out of a Cecil B. DeMille movie set).
The whole reenactment (called Pamalandong, or Meditation) ends right at the top of a stage (transformed into a tropical Calvary), where they make a switcheroo right before the religious crowd. Just as the actor lies down to be nailed to his cross, he slips down a trapdoor on the stage, and when the cross is raised up the crowd sees a wooden statue (but with movable parts) of Jesus nailed to the cross.
The reenactment lasts for about three hours — from Jesus’ capture by Roman centurions (like those in the photo above) to Jesus being taken down from the cross — and while the crowd waits out Jesus’ suffering (complete with the statue raising its head to the sky above, or twitching in pain) on the cross, they listen to the Siete Palabras or Seven Last Words delivered by priests and lay people in sermons.
Soon after Jesus is brought down from the cross and interred in the sepulchre (that the religious later queue up to rub their handkerchiefs on the figure of Jesus or to kiss its wounded hands and feet, as it lays in a special carriage inside the church), the more fanatical among the crowd rush up to the stage to grab a branch or a leaf they believe has been endowed with healing powers because it was used during the whole reenactment. Dulce is right, when she quotes Constantino saying, that we have “Filipinized” Christianity.










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